今晚的廚房Tonight's Kitchen
小農餐桌
kakanan nua qemuma-quma
從田裡長出來的排灣風土料理
Paiwan terroir cooking, grown out of the field
位於屏東縣瑪家鄉三和村的「小農餐桌」,以排灣傳統雜糧與部落小農作物為料理核心。
Based in Sanhe Village, Majia Township, Pingtung, Small Farmers' Table builds its cooking around traditional Paiwan grains and the crops of tribal smallholders.
「kakanan nua qemuma-quma」在排灣語中意指「田裡吃飯的地方」,也說明了小農餐桌最重要的精神——餐桌不是料理的終點,而是從土地、種植、農人到飲食文化彼此相遇的地方。
In Paiwan, “kakanan nua qemuma-quma” means “the place where one eats in the field” — which says what matters most to them: the table is not where cooking ends, but where land, planting, farmers and food culture meet one another.
小農餐桌長期運用小米、高粱、樹豆、花生及各式部落傳統作物進行料理創作,在傳統飲食文化的基礎上,不斷嘗試新的料理形式。從 lamuq、cinavu,到雜糧麵包、手工圓餅與不同風味料理,都可以看見傳統作物進入當代餐桌的可能。
They have long cooked with millet, sorghum, pigeon pea, peanuts and other traditional tribal crops, and on the foundation of that food culture they keep trying new forms. From lamuq and cinavu to multigrain breads, hand-made round cakes and dishes of many flavours, you can see traditional crops finding their way onto a contemporary table.
對小農餐桌而言,料理不只是「呈現部落特色」,更希望透過每一次使用、每一道料理,讓部落小農種植的作物持續被需要,支持山村裡仍然耕種與保種的人。
For them, cooking is not only a matter of “presenting tribal character”. Through every use and every dish, they hope the crops that tribal smallholders grow will go on being needed — supporting the people who still farm, and still keep seed, in the mountain villages.
因此,小農餐桌所端出的不只是一桌料理,而是一種從土地出發的飲食實踐——
And so what they bring to the table is not merely a meal, but a way of eating that begins in the soil —
讓傳統作物繼續被種、被吃,也在今天的生活裡繼續長出新的味道。
letting traditional crops keep being planted and eaten, and keep growing new flavours in the life we live today.